When thinking of camping, some may imagine a more traditional experience with campsite-provided amenities, while others prefer a more versatile experience, one that allows them to settle into unconventional spaces. This is essentially the principle behind boondocking. By definition, boondocking is camping without hook-ups, so some might consider camping in a relative’s driveway boondocking and others are seeking out very remote spaces.
Whether you’re parked just outside town for a weekend or chasing true solitude off the grid, having the right setup changes what your trip looks like. We’re looking at 10 features to consider when shopping for your next boondocking-ready RV.
Power is one of the things you’ll likely want when getting off the grid. While the obvious answer to this is solar power, that’s not always the true measure. Something to think about is how long you want to be off the grid. For instance, some campers commonly plan overnight stays without hook-ups at locations like Walmart, Cracker Barrel, or at a Harvest Host stopover.
There are also people who wish to stay longer, so everything from traveling in trailers with large holding tanks to models with efficient power systems will come into play here. In fact, the remote style of boondocking has increasingly evolved its own category known as overlanding, which centers on the journey itself. The overlanding vehicle-based style has risen in popularity, resulting in more people attending overlanding expo events.
The thing to look for when RV shopping is the battery situation – how much reserve power is equipped on your next RV. Batteries in motorized RVs are often provided by the motorhome’s builder, but batteries in towable RVs are usually provided by the dealership. For example, heat in an RV is typically provided by burning propane, while the fan, refrigerator, and air conditioner draw considerable power from the 12-volt DC system.
Typically, a good RV battery and even a few solar panels can handle the fridge and the furnace, but the AC is a different situation.
The refrigerator in almost all new RVs is now exclusively powered by electricity. In many cases the fridge is a 12 volt DC model but there are plenty of higher-end RVs that still use residential models. The days of the propane-electric fridge sipping propane overnight are almost completely gone although a very few RV companies still offer this as a choice.
Newer 12-volt refrigerators are becoming remarkably efficient and while they used to take about 100 amp hours over a 24-hour period. You may want to consider that many drop-in replacement lithium batteries for towables have about 100 amp hours of reserve, so a 12-volt fridge can completely deplete a standard drop-in replacement battery in a day’s camping all by itself. Residential refrigerators want 120-volt, which means inverting a whole lot of power while off the grid.
If you do plan to camp off the grid, understand how much power your RV typically consumes in a 24-hour period. You can do this several ways, but a good EMS or surge protector can report power consumption. You can use this bit of brain power to calculate how many solar panels you might want to have on the roof.
Think of solar panels as the spigot and batteries as the bucket. The performance of your panels also varies greatly depending on how they are positioned, how clean they are, and other factors.
Some RV companies are making significant solar arrays available to buyers with the advantage of factory-installed systems including the fact that the roof warranty is not voided by having that much solar installed.It’s important to note, having a huge roof-top solar array isn’t always critical.
Many RV builders are now offering solar packages as an option. Brands like Flagstaff, Ember RV, and Keystone have elaborate solar systems as options on their RV and many Class B campers are outfitted with solar and lithium packages as standard. A good solar and battery solution is also something that can be installed in the aftermarket as well on just about any RV.
An inverter converts the 12-volt direct current (dc) power that RV batteries provide into the 120-volt alternating current (vac) household power needed to run outlets and some appliances. The size or capability of the inverter and the amount of battery reserves you have will determine what you can run in your RV and for how long.
It’s not unusual that RV builders make a 2,000-watt inverter available as an option or even as a standard feature in their products. With an inverter of this size, you can run things like CPAP machines and charge computers using the 120vac household outlets.
Plenty of toy haulers and most Class A motorhomes have an onboard generator of some sort. There are also a lot of fifth wheels that offer a built-in generator as an option and even a few travel trailer brands do as well. The obvious advantage of a built-in generator is that it typically provides all the power an RV would need to run everything aboard the RV that usually includes the air conditioner.
The disadvantage of a generator is that you have to maintain it, and there are plenty of places that have quiet hours during which you can’t run the generator.
A small number of RV builders are starting to offer DC-DC charging systems in their RVs. What this does is use the alternator on the engine of the RV to charge the batteries in the RV. That means that the batteries charge while you’re on the road and then you take advantage of your on-board battery reserves while camping off the grid.
At the present time this is most common in Class B RVs but there are towable brands that include this with upgraded power systems including the Rockwood/Flagstaff models with the optional Power Package upgrade. Your tow vehicle then juices up the battery while you’re on the road – this is the system we have in our own RV.
Depending on the vehicle’s manufacturer it may be possible to idle the engine to replenish the battery in the RV eliminating the need for a standalone generator.
Aother area where power consumption is improving is in RV air conditioners. Units like the Furrion Chill Cube, Coleman Mach Everest VS-18, and Truma Aventa tend to provide much better A/C performance. And they do so much more efficiently and quietly.
For boondockers, it may also be possible to run the air conditioner on battery power – depending on how much battery reserves you have of course. If a generator is your go-to it these A/C systems also take a smaller generator or take less power from an existing generator if you have one aboard.
An outside shower can be a big boon to boondocking under the right circumstances. For example, we use ours as an outdoor kitchen and there are circumstances where you could use it as a shower. Just be very aware that this doesn’t always go over well in places where there is greater care being taken with ground water use or where your outdoor showering activities might inspire ire from others within seeing distance.
There are also ways conserve water when boondocking, but one of the more limited, but noteworthy, features a being a ShowerMiser. This plumbing device redirects water into the plumbing system while you’re waiting for the hot water to reach the shower.
Though there are some important factors to consider before getting a tankless water heater, they are becoming more common. Tankless RV water heaters only operate on propane, with a small amount of 12-volt power to run the control panel. The challenge with these is that they need a considerable amount of flow to operate, which means you have to turn the water up high enough for the tankless water heater to kick on. There are some newer tankless water heaters that are more amenable to boondocking, including Truma and Fogatti.
Connectivity is important to some RVers, and even those who wish to camp far off the beaten path have some desire for connectivity — whether keeping up with family and friends or reading online. Many of the new RVs incorporate some form of digital connectivity, including cellular-based connectivity packages, Starlink, or other satellite-based systems. What works best for how you camp can vary based on your destination.
Looking to see how far you can push your present RV off the grid without risking being stuck? Consider going to a full hook-up campground, but rely only on what’s built into your RV. That way you can see what features work to your satisfaction and how long you can go on the holding tanks in your rig.
Many RVers are members of services like Harvest Hosts where you might only spend a night or two off the grid enjoying a unique experience. Whatever your preference, being prepared is critical when going off the grid. Many newer RVs I have effectively made their rigs valuable to those of us who love boondocking, whether that’s a series of options to facilitate off-grid camping or even included features.