Big Bend National Park is a truly unique place, even among national parks. Where else can you find ancient sea fossils, abundant spring wildflowers, riverside hot springs, rare migratory birds, rugged mountains, dinosaur bones, and volcanic dikes scattered about — and all this in remote, desert landscape with sky islands that rise more than 6,000 feet over a meandering green river? Big Bend takes its name from significant bend in the Rio Grande that slices through the park’s towering canyons. The river here creates a natural 118-mile border between two nations that share the unique Chihuahuan Desert ecosystem.
Further, this enormous dark sky park in southern Texas is one of America’s most remote national parks that can be reached by vehicle within the Lower 48 states. However, it is well worth the road time to make the trip!
The driving distances are vast in this park. So, plan plenty of time to get from one side to the other. A few scenic drives will provide you a great overview of the best of what this park has to offer. These drives are challenge-by-choice, ranging from tame paved roads to maintained gravel to full-on, four-wheelin’ backcountry adventure travel.
This road is an excellent way to experience the transition between arid desert and cooler mountain habitats. This scenic, winding road rises over 2,000 feet above the desert floor. That elevation provides it with jaw-dropping views of the mountain peaks and basin area. (Note: This road is NOT recommended for trailers longer than 20 feet or RVs over 24 feet due to its sharp curves and steep grades.) Distance: 6 miles
This route highlights the stunning geologic vistas for which Big Bend National Park is famous. It offers many scenic overlooks and exhibits along the way — Sotol Vista, Mule Ears Overlook, and Tuff Canyon all being worthwhile stops. (Historical stops include both Sam Nail and Homer Wilson Ranches, as well as the Castolon Historic Compound.) Continue driving to the magnificent Santa Elena Canyon, where limestone cliffs rise 1,500 feet above the Rio Grande. Distance: 30 miles
This route courses you through ancient limestone and offers stunning vistas of the incredible Sierra del Carmen escarpment. The road descends nearly 2,000 feet over just 20 miles. There are several worthwhile stops and highlights along the way including Dugout Wells and the Historic Hot Springs, as well as several short hikes. Distance: 21 miles
Connecting the north entrance to park headquarters at Panther Junction, from Persimmon Gap the road descends a long, gentle, gravel slope to Tornillo creek and Tornillo Flat. The Rosillos Mountains come into view to the west, with the Dead Horse Mountains due east. Highlights include trails to Dog Canyon and Devil’s Den, the Fossil Bone Exhibit, and the Tornillo Creek hoodoos. Distance: 28 miles
A route that traverses through striking desert scenery with excellent views of the surrounding mountains, several roadside exhibits also describe wildlife common to the area. Junctions for the Chisos Basin road and Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive are located along this route. Distance: 23 miles
“The physiographic order of the Big Bend is somewhat like the order of a great city built of stone and brick — wrecked by an earthquake. Perhaps order once prevailed there, but some mighty force wrecked the place, shook it down, turned it over, blew it up, and set it afire. Evidences that all this happened exist on every hand, making the land the finest example of earth-wreckage in Texas.” – Walter Prescott Webb, 1937
Heads up: Since road conditions can change with every passing storm and season, always check with a ranger at the visitor’s center to make sure these roads are passable before heading out.
The Old Maverick Road runs between Maverick Junction and Santa Elena Canyon, passing along the Terlingua Creek badlands on the west side of the park. A number of historic sites are located near the road that you may visit as you gradually descend to the Rio Grande and Santa Elena. Note: This route can be rough and washboarded, usually taking about an hour to drive. Rain can make the road difficult or even impassable. Sand or muddy conditions can create additional challenges. High-clearance and 4×4 vehicles are recommended. Distance: 14 miles
This trails winds eastward to a small valley with a forest of giant dagger yuccas. Traversable by most vehicles, it is also good for mountain biking. Allow two hours round-trip due to reduced speed. Note: Sandy areas or muddy conditions may exist seasonally. Rain makes this road difficult to drive or impassable. Distance: 14 miles roundtrip
In addition to these options, Big Bend National Park offers many miles of unimproved backcountry roads that allow you to explore the remote corners of this park, offering some stunning solitude. They are a challenge, but well worth the adventure if you and your vehicle are up for it.
You must have a street legal, high clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle (or mountain bike) to explore these backcountry roads that traverse bedrock and washes, making them extremely rough and sometimes slippery. Maintaining a slow speed is mandatory for safe passage. Before you travel on these roads, plan ahead and prepare. (It could save your life!)
Hiking trails abound in this park with a wide variety of designated trails ranging from very easy to challenging. It’s important to note that the heat can be overwhelming here in the summer months, making a moderate hike quite difficult. If you plan to hike in the summer desert, hydrate before you start hiking AND bring at least two liters of water per person. Start out early, take shade breaks as often as you can, assess what your group’s abilities are and check in often, and be realistic about what you can accomplish. Also, some hikes are located off of 4-while drive roads, so make sure your vehicle is up for the challenge. Here are some good options depending on the season.
The Window View. This paved, flat trail leads to a viewpoint of the Window, a cut-out in the Chisos Mountains. And that’s a great thing because this is one of the best (and most popular) sunset points in the park. Distance: 0.3 miles
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Note on Pet Policy: Pets are not allowed on trails, off roads, or in the river. Your pet can only go where your car can go. So, having a pet with you may limit some of your activities and explorations in the park.
Once — to provide a brief personal story —after driving what seemed like all afternoon from Interstate 10 to the park’s boundary, we arrived just before sunset. There, we were greeted by two very enthusiastic and friendly volunteers stationed at the park’s border. “Congratulations, you made it!” they cheered. And then they inquired, “Where are you camping?” When hearing our reply, they then said, “Great, all you have is about 45 more minutes left to get to Chisos Basin Campground.”
Point is: Driving distances here are vast. And this remote park, the Chisos Basin Campground, without any moonlight may be one of the darkest places on the planet! Tip: Arrive by mid-day so that you have plenty of time to get to your campsite before the sun goes down, and enjoy the stunning views along the way.
All three campgrounds within the Big Bend National Park require reservations — and book up quickly. Rolling reservations range from six months out (to accommodate those who prefer to plan many months ahead) to two weeks out (for those of us who want to travel with more flexibility). No electrical, water, or sewer hook-ups are available within the park.
While Cottonwood Campground is more primitive, Chisos Basin, and Rio Grande Village campgrounds offer flush toilets, running water, picnic tables, grills, and some overhead shelters, with a dump station either in the campground or nearby Showers are available at the Camp Store in the Rio Grande Village. Note the elevation of each campground because seasonal temperatures can vary widely from extreme heat (110+) to very cold.
Nestled in an open woodland within a scenic mountain basin with views of Casa Grande and Emory Peak, some of the park’s most popular trails begin nearby. RV Size Limitations: Due to the narrow and winding road up to the Basin and small, unlevel sites, trailers over 20 feet and RV’s over 24 feet are NOT recommended.
A quiet oasis in the western corner of the park, conveniently located between the Castolon Historic District, the scenic Santa Elena Canyon, and the end of the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, this small campground is one of the least-known and quietest. Offers vault toilets, potable water, picnic tables, bear boxes, and grills. Note: Bring your solar panels, as no generators are permitted in this campground.
Set in a grove of cottonwoods and acacia trees, this campground is located near the Rio Grande. Prime visitation season is November 1 through April 30, with the campground open to full capacity. A camp store with showers and a park visitor center are nearby. *Due to extreme heat during the summer months, the campground operates at reduced capacity (25 campsites) from May to October.
For visitors with rugged, high clearance vehicles that can handle rough terrain, Big Bend National Park provides options for backcountry camping. While it may take some time to secure a permit and get to your designated spot, it’s a completely different experience in the backcountry!
Note: No dispersed camping or “boondocking” is allowed in Big Bend National Park. All campers must be in designated campsites with a permit.
There are several privately-owned RV parks and campgrounds in the nearby towns of Study Butte, Terlingua, and Lajitas to the west of the national park. Additionally, there are several options for camping north of the park (though quite a distance away from the park boundary) which are perfect for the night before or night after visiting Big Bend. Many of these campgrounds offer resort-like facilities and full-hookups.
Big Bend Ranch State Park is located about 80 miles northwest of the national park, offering a beautiful and very unique state park experience! If you’ve stayed for the 14-day limit within the national park and aren’t ready to leave the area, the state park offers a great option for extending your time in the area. Note: There is NO nearby public land for dispersed camping outside of the park.
Elevation is everything in Big Bend National Park as the area ranges in elevation from 1800 feet at river level to over 7800 feet at the summit of Emory Peak. Weather conditions may vary greatly depending on your exact location within the park, but sunshine is nearly always abundant so bring your solar panels and you’ll generate all the power that you may need while camping!
As with many national parks, one visit is often not enough to see and explore all of what Big Bend has to offer. We recommend at least seven to 10 days in this park to make the most of your visit. If you’ve driven all this way and have the time available, we highly recommend seeing a couple more national parks in the region such as Guadalupe Mountains and Carlsbad Caverns, as well as some of Texas’s unique and beautiful state parks.
As a designated International Dark Sky park, half the fun of this park is what comes out after dark! The wide-open landscape and arid desert climate offers clear night skies filled with twinkling stars, bright planets, and the most stunning view of the Milky Way you may ever see!
While all four seasons bring great opportunities to bird watch, bird nerds love Big Bend for the rare migratory birds that fly through, with the spring being the best time to see them.
Lightly traveled roads and varied terrain make Big Bend a perfect bicycling location. With over 100 miles of paved roads and 160 miles of backcountry dirt roads, the riding here is varied enough to provide challenges for cyclists of all types and abilities. Bicycles (including e-bikes) are allowed on any road within the park, but are not allowed off-road or on any trail.
While fishing might seem like an odd activity in a park located in the middle of a desert, the Rio Grande river provides a great place to throw your line in. While no Texas fishing permit is required, a Big Bend fishing permit must be obtained from the visitor center.
You may bring and ride horses on all gravel roads, as well as a few specified trails. A backcountry use permit is required and must be obtained in person at a park service visitor center up to 24 hours in advance, and every rider should obtain a copy of the stock use regulations. Note: There are no horses or pack animals for hire in or near the park.
Depending on the water level, the gorgeous Santa Elena Canyon can be rafted downstream when water levels are high, or you can kayak upstream then float downstream when water levels are low. Both options provide fantastic single day or multi-day trips. Note: You must obtain a backcountry use permit for any day-use or overnight river trip on the Rio Grande in the park or downstream of the park along the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River. River permits are available at Panther Junction and Chisos Basin Visitor Centers up to 7 days in advance of your trip.
Bring your bathing suit and soak in the springs heated by geothermal processes and emerging at 105 degrees Fahrenheit. While J.O. Langford’s bathhouse is long gone, the springs are contained by the remaining foundation of the historic bathhouse on the north bank of the Rio Grande. The hot springs are accessible via a two-mile gravel road, then a short walk to the springs. This can be a busy place during the busy season. So, be prepared to wait your turn for a soak.
Ranging from Ranger Strolls to Evening Programs at various campgrounds, these programs are always free, do not require a reservation, and vary by season and available staff. Head over to the visitor center to see what programs are offered during your visit.
If you’ve never been to Mexico, bring your passport or passport card to experience a very small village for a day via the Boquillas Crossing Port of Entry. In Boquillas del Carmen, tourism is the principal industry where you will find two restaurants, a bar, as well as local guides who offer walking tours of the small village and many locally made crafts. Tours to the Boquillas Canyon, hot springs, archaeological sites and caves in the surrounding area by foot, truck, horse/burro, and canoe are also available.